September once again signals the beginning of fashion month, where Milan and Paris become the epicenter of global style. This season, the focus is not only on trends but on a new wave of creative directors stepping into some of fashion’s most iconic houses. Their first collections will set the tone for the months ahead, and expectations are higher than ever.
Milan: Gucci and Versace
Milan opens with one of the boldest moves of the year: Demna’s arrival at Gucci on September 23. Known for his disruptive aesthetic at Balenciaga, he now faces the challenge of reinterpreting Gucci’s rich heritage. Three days later, on September 26, Dario Vitale takes Versace in a different direction. Instead of the usual extravagance, he promises an intimate presentation, leaning toward subtle tailoring and a more understated elegance under Prada’s influence.
Milan: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander
On September 27, Louise Trotter unveils her vision for Bottega Veneta. With her sharp minimalism, she is expected to refine the codes of quiet luxury without losing the house’s tactile perfection. A day earlier, Simone Bellotti takes the stage at Jil Sander. His approach points to a return to pure lines and essential tailoring, aiming to capture the brand’s minimalist poetry that defined its legacy.
Paris: Dior and Loewe
Paris raises the curtain with Jonathan Anderson’s Dior womenswear debut on October 1. Known for blending pop references with intellectual depth, he is set to reimagine the French house’s timeless codes. On October 3, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, founders of Proenza Schouler, bring their New York sensibility to Loewe, following in the footsteps of Jonathan Anderson’s transformative era at the brand.
Paris: Balenciaga, Chanel and Margiela
October continues with high-stakes transitions. Pierpaolo Piccioli leaves behind Valentino’s romanticism to lead Balenciaga, a move expected to merge poetic emotion with conceptual rigor. Just two days later, Matthieu Blazy, fresh from his acclaimed work at Bottega Veneta, takes on the challenge of Chanel, stepping into a house weighted with history. Meanwhile, Glenn Martens, celebrated for his daring couture at Margiela, now faces the task of translating that creative power into ready-to-wear.
A Season of Change
From Milan’s reinventions to Paris’s daring experiments, Fashion Month 2025 is more than a parade of clothes — it is a season of transformation. These debuts may redefine not only the identity of their maisons but also the future direction of global fashion.
